The Ultra Trail South West (UTSW) is a 100 mile with almost 4 miles of ascent and is billed as the toughest footrace in the UK. Well there are quite a few runs that claim to be the toughest and I don’t know if this is true but this race qualifies for 4 points towards the Ultra Trail Mont Blanc which is the maximum points for any single race so it’s certainly up there.
This is the first time that the UTSW has run and the the concept is that it will be run on a different section of the South West Coastal Path every year. A good idea really as I like variety and the South West Coastal Path contains some beautiful scenery.
The start of the race for 2012 was at Porthleven with the finish at Watergate Bay, near Newquay. The start time was 7pm on Friday evening (22nd June) which I think was chosen to allow the competitors 40 hours to complete the course but still finish by mid-day on Sunday. Most of the events which I participate in have a small number of competitors and an even smaller number of supporters but for this event a lot of families were present to support the start and a lot of people in the village watched with interest, photos were taken and a brief pep talk and the race was started. As you might expect the runners had been preparing for months and were eager to get going so the initial pace was quick as we headed onto the coastal path towards Marazion near St Micheal’s Mount, for the first checkpoint. On this section of the course we were fresh, it was still daylight and the route was mostly clearly marked and easy to find. The ascent on this section was listed as 1749ft (533m) which didn’t prove too difficult for anyone. On reaching the checkpoint at Marazion people still looked fresh and grabbed sweets and water before heading straight on to the next section.
Stage 2 was from Marazion to Lamorna and a large part of this was close to sea level, so the ascent for the section was just 604ft (184m) so pace continued to be quick but the pack started to spread out. Running through Penzance on a Friday night didn’t attract as much attention as you might expect or maybe they just weren’t drunk enough for the normal jeering that you might get. While waiting for the start at Porthleven the weather had seem blustery and cool so I had opted for a base layer as well as a running top but with wind dropped and the fast pace ensured that I was really a little warmer than I wanted to be. After Mousehole we started to climb up again and the course started to undulate. Darkness was closing in as I arrived at Lamorna having broken away from the small group that I’d been running with so a quick refuel and after putting my head torch on I was off.
Stage 3 from Lamorna to Lands End. This was something of a shock as shortly after heading away form Lamorna I was confronted with large boulders in the way, had I missed a turning, that couldn’t have been right because there had been a cliff on my right since I left the checkpoint, so over I went and there was the path again. Night had closed in completely now and writing this now the details become quite sketchy. At some point I came to a village which was quite eery. On my own, not really sure where I was late at night. The footpath wandered through the town before seeming to head out onto the beach. It was only on reaching the end of the beach that I realised I really needed to be on a footpath above the beach, there was only a small cliff so I reasoned that I could clamber up in less time than it would take to retrace my steps. After checking the handholds on the cliff I realised that this wouldn’t end well so I headed back to find a path up, slipping and bending my thumbnail backwards in the process. The swearing and minor pain sustained me back onto the coastal path and along. The order becomes a little bit confused in my memory now but I reached the Minack Theatre and, I think, later came to a section of coastal path that was closed. Drastic measure now so I had to check my map and I could see a route that would get me back onto the coastal path without doubling back at any point, it was down a good track to a farm so it looked OK. All went well until the very final part where I would rejoin the coastal path, although I was still on a footpath it led me into a very boggy field and my feet became very we crossing this, and this would become important later. Gradually closing in on Land’s End at one point I lost the path and started to worry that I was heading towards a big drop, the waves crashing below were becoming louder and sounded nearer. Time to check my position. Moving around carefully I found what seemed to be a path and then other the head torches of some other runners, what a relief. Not long afterwards it was the Land’s End hotel and this time a short rest. With an ascent of 3071ft (936m) and completely in the dark this was the first truly tough section.
Stage 4 from Land’s End to Pendeen Watch. For me this was the end of the first night of running. Leaving Land’s End the path was easy to find and reasonably easy running. This is now well into the early hours of Saturday morning and I can’t really remember a lot about this part of the run. As dawn came I could see lights on at a farm on one of the headlands and I hoped that this was the next checkpoint but no I had to carry on further. As I finally approached Pendeen Watch I could see increasing signs of Cornish mining, it had been present throughout the run so far, and I eventually reached the checkpoint. Time for a brief moment of respite and some porridge before heading out on the next section.
Stage 5 from Pendeen Watch to Zennor Head. Starting out pleasantly enough on a track this soon later turned to many sharp drops followed by steep climbs and the footing started to deteriorate with increasing numbers of rocks to catch your feet on. It was also one of the shortest sections and it seemed like no time at all before I was climbing a steep hill to the checkpoint where I saw another fellow competitor just leaving, the first in many hours.
Stage 6 from Zennor Head to St Ives. The condition of the trail had been steadily deteriorating for some time and on this section it was at its worst. The path was generally quite clear but it included lots of rocks which meant you had to be careful not to trip but also these were causing quite a bit of discomfort for my feet. At times it felt like the stones were digging directly into the soles of my feet and my trail shoes seemed to be of little benefit. There was just one moment where I was unsure of the trail and that was when I came across boulders covering, what I assumed, was the path. I clambered over the boulders but couldn’t see anything much like a path on the other side. So I climbed back down to look for an alternate route but there was nothing to find. Back over again and this time the not very obvious path looked a lot clearer to me so on I ran. In terms of energy I was still feeling pretty good at this point but this wasn’t going to last much longer. Coming into St Ives was a relief mainly because the rocks gradually vanished and a pavement opened out in front of me. This was just over half way, at 53.4 miles but already I’d added on quite a distance and my GPS was suggesting closer to 60 miles. I desperately wanted to change my socks but my crew didn’t have them with her.
Stage 7 from St Ives to Godrevy Point. It was during this section of the run that other runners started to pass me. Some of them were on the 60 mile race, which I don’t feel too bad about, but some were on the 100 mile run. This was a pretty flat section of the run with a big part of it being through the sand dunes on the approach to Godrevy Point. As I passed through Hayle this was also the first time that I’d seen any significant number of normal people. While it was nice to be in the sand coming up to Godrevy Point it was also hard work and my pace was slowing noticeably.
Stage 8 from Godrevy Point to Porthtowan. For the next 2 sections I can’t really remember much. It’s not just the passage of time since I completed the run but also because I was now exhausted and I’d reached something of a crawl. Sometimes I was running but increasingly I was walking now. On arrival at Porthtowan I was feeling ill. I sat down and quickly fell asleep with my head in my hands. I’m not sure how long this lasted for before I got to my feet and started the next section.
Stage 9 from Porthtowand to Perranporth. I really can’t remember much about this section now. I recall that there was an initial hard climb but that it later became a mostly flat section along a high coastal path with opportunities to drop right down in order to climb up again.
Stage 10 from Perranporth to Fistral Beach. Mostly during the day the weather had been quite pleasant, not too hot and not cold, but during this section that all changed. Gradually it started to rain and the wind picked up. For the next hour or so it just became more miserable, or maybe that was just me. I got very wet and at times very cold. Worse still I’d reached a crucial section at high tide and had to run an extra few miles around the coast to reach the final checkpoint at Fistral Beach. As I got closer the daylight started to fade, the coastal path vanished and was replaced by markings placed on the road by Endurance life. Unfortunately I didn’t realise that these were now the markings and had quite a few problems before I realised. Later I would learn that one of the runners had so many problems at this stage that she gave up at the final checkpoint which was a great shame. Even just short of the final checkpoint I couldn’t find any markings and didn’t know which way to go. Fortunately another runner came by and I stuck with him as my local guide.
Stage 11 from Fistral Beach to Watergate Bay. The last section and just under 6 miles to go. I stuck with my buddy who seemed to know his way. It was only 6 miles but I was completely disorientated, which is pretty unusual for me. The route was reasonably easy to find with 2 of us looking for it and it was the home stretch, but I was finding it very hard. Not far from the end I let my buddy run on to the finish and I trailed behind. In fact I’m surprised at how much of a gap there was between us considering there was probably only about 1 mile to go there was a gap of 8 minutes, and I’m not sure what I did in that time.
Reaching the end was great. I was exhausted but would have carried on if I needed to (thankfully not). I was disappointed in my overall time and position (25 out of 48 finishers) but not hugely disappointed.
The race was a serious challenge. I’m not sure if it is the toughest in the UK but it is definitely up there. The one big disappointment for me, and for other runners, was that there was no fruit to eat at the checkpoints. There’s only so many energy gels you can eat and it’s surprising how refreshing a piece of fruit can be. My crew, Lynn, bought some grapes and bananas for me too eat and I swear that the grapes were the best I’d ever eaten.